HSGM
offers affordable flea and tick control!
Call our clinic for more information (305-696-0800)
When it comes to fleas, prevention is the key.
Ask anyone who has had a flea problem - they are now strong advocates
of prevention. Controlling and eliminating an already existing
flea problem takes a lot of time and effort. And it can become
quite expensive if any of the steps are overlooked. There is no
successful flea control program that does not involve treating
the environment.
Attempting to control flea numbers on our dogs and cats is a multi-step
process. Adult fleas spend most of their time on an animal, but
the flea eggs, larvae, and pupae are found in abundance in the
environment such as in carpeting, rugs, bedding, and grass. There
is no successful flea control program that does not involve treating
the environment. To have a successful flea control program we
must:
•
Remove the fleas from the indoor environment
• Remove
the fleas from the outdoor environment
• Remove
the fleas from the pets
• Keep
the fleas away
Flea
control is complicated by the fact that there are many wild animals
which serve as 'reservoirs' for flea populations. Fleas can infest
over 50 species of animals worldwide. In the United States, coyotes,
fox, raccoons, some rodent species, skunks, opossums, rabbits,
and ferrets can all harbor cat fleas. Flea control is also hampered
by the evidence that some fleas are developing resistance to some
of our flea control products, especially organophosphates.
You
may think you have eliminated all the fleas, when suddenly they
are back. This may not be due to anything you are doing wrong.
It may be that a number of pupae that have been lying dormant
have hatched. Remember, the pupal stage of the flea can lie dormant
for months, is protected by its cocoon, and is resistant to most
of the insecticides. You will need to keep treating the environment
and your pet until all of these pupal stages have hatched.
Ingredients
of flea control products can vary and include adulticides, chemicals
that can kill immature forms, insect growth regulators/development
inhibitors, or combinations thereof. The choice of products will
need to be based on the extent of the flea infestation; the species,
breed, health status, and age of the pet; the environment; presence
of other pets; and special family needs (e.g., infants, people
with asthma).
Flea
control in the indoor environment
Indoor
flea control involves mechanically removing all stages of the
fleas, killing any remaining adults, and preventing immature forms
from developing.
To
mechanically remove all stages of fleas, vacuum thoroughly, especially
where your pet sleeps. When you are through, enclose your vacuum
bag in a plastic bag and discard it immediately. Vacuuming must
be ongoing - daily in high traffic areas and weekly in others.
It is estimated that vacuuming can remove as many as 50% of the
flea eggs. Do NOT place moth balls or flea collars in the vacuum
since toxic fumes could result.
Use
an adulticide to kill remaining adult fleas. This can be in the
form of carpet powders, foggers, or sprays. Sometimes combinations
of these products need to be used. Foggers are especially good
for large open areas. Surface sprays can reach areas such as baseboards,
moldings, cracks, under furniture, and other areas foggers can
not reach. Choose the product(s) you use with care, taking into
account the presence of children, fish, birds, persons with asthma,
etc. Your veterinarian can help you choose the appropriate products
for your situation. In severe infestations, you may need the help
of a professional exterminator.
To
stop the development of immature forms you will need to use sprays
and foggers which contain an insect growth regulator such as Nylar.
Many sprays and foggers contain both an adulticide and an insect
growth regulator.
Remember
to wash your pet's bedding weekly and to treat the area with an
insect growth regulator and possibly an adulticide.
Do
not forget to also clean and treat your automobile, pet carrier,
garage, basement, or any other place your pet spends an appreciable
length of time.
Flea
control in the outdoor environment
Flea
control in the outdoor environment generally involves treating
the yard and kennel areas where fleas are most likely to occur.
Fleas tend to like it where it is moist, warm, shady, and where
there is organic debris. They will also tend to be where pets
spend more of their outdoor time. So be sure to concentrate on
areas such as patios, under porches, dog houses, etc.
Rake
away any organic debris such as leaves, straw, grass clippings,
etc., to disturb flea habitat and allow any flea and tick product
you use outdoors to penetrate.
If
you are going to treat your yard, we prefer an environmentally
safe spray containing fenvalerate for this purpose. There are
also sprays which contain insect growth regulators which can be
used.
You
may need to treat the yard every 10 to 30 days depending on the
product. Regardless of the product used, remember not to spray
when or where runoff could go into lakes or rivers. Read the label
on all insecticides thoroughly and apply them as directed.
Flea
control on your pet
There are
multiple ways to apply the flea and tick control products to your
pet including once-a-month topical products, sprays, powders,
dips, shampoos, collars, and oral or injectable products.
It is perfectly
normal to see live fleas on a pet immediately after spraying,
shampooing, dipping, etc. It has to happen for the products to
be effective.
With any product applied directly to the pet, please remember
that the fleas must get on the pet, feed on and/or walk through
the hair of the pet to become contaminated with the insecticide.
They will then jump off the pet and die in the grass or carpet.
It is perfectly normal to see live fleas on a pet immediately
after spraying, shampooing, dipping, etc. It has to happen for
the products to be effective. Many times this is confused with
the products not working. As long as fleas are in your area you
will and should expect to see them, even on the treated pet. Their
appearance may continue for days, weeks, or months depending on
the remaining flea population. The same is true with flea collars,
where you can expect to see fleas directly under the collar. Again,
this has to happen. Think of it as a restaurant trying to poison
its patrons. They must come in contact and absorb the insecticide
before they will be affected.
Once-a-month
Topicals: Once-a-month topical insecticides are applied to
a small area on the back of the pet, are probably the easiest
product to use, and generally last the longest. Some kill fleas
and ticks, and others just fleas. Some contain insect growth regulators
in addition to insecticides, so check the label carefully. Examples:
Bio Spot, Advantage, Frontline Top Spot, Revolution, and Defend.
Sprays:
Flea and tick control sprays can come as aerosols or pump
bottles. When using a spray, you do not have to soak the pet with
the spray, but be sure to spray all parts of the animal. Spray
a small amount on a cotton ball to apply the product around the
eyes and ears. Do not get any of these products in the eyes. Follow
your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions on how often
to spray, and spray in a well-ventilated area. Note: Most cats
prefer the pump bottles, since the hiss from the aerosols may
sound too much like the hiss of another cat. If you are going
to use an aerosol spray on a cat, it may be helpful to spray a
cloth with the product (away from the cat), and then rub the cat
with the cloth.
Powders:
Powders are generally easy to apply but can create a mess.
If you or your pet has asthma, powders may not be the best choice
of product since the powder could be inhaled. Be sure to use powders
in well-ventilated areas.
Dips: Dips
and rinses are applied to the entire animal. They generally have
some residual activity. They should be applied in a well-ventilated
area according to your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's directions.
It is helpful to put cotton balls in the pet's ears and ophthalmic
ointment in the pet's eyes. Even with these precautions, be very
careful not to get any of the product in the pet's ears or eyes.
Dips and rinses may contain permethrin, pyrethrin, or organophosphates.
Shampoos:
Shampoos help to primarily rid the pet of the fleas it already
has on it, although some have residual activity. To properly use
a flea & tick shampoo you must be sure to work the shampoo
in over the entire body and then leave it on at least 10 minutes
before you rinse it off. This is true of almost any medicated
shampoo. Again, remember to protect the eyes and ears of the pet.
(HINT: Cats often do not like running water. It is often better
to pour water over a cat with a large pitcher, rather than spray
it.)
Collars:
Collars can be effective, but must be applied properly. To get
the right degree of snugness, you should just be able to get two
fingers between the collar and the neck of your pet. Be sure to
cut off any excess portion of the collar after you have properly
applied it. Otherwise, that animal or other pets may try to chew
on the end. Check the package for information on duration of effectiveness
since many collars lose effectiveness when they get wet, e.g.,
if your dog swims a lot. Watch carefully for any irritation under
the collar. If this occurs, you may need to use a different product.
Do NOT use
collars containing Amitraz, permethrin, or organophosphates on
cats.
Oral and
Injectable Products: Program, a product containing an insect
development inhibitor is available as a tablet for dogs and cats
and as an injectable for cats. The tablets are given once a month;
the injection is given every 6 months. Remember, these products
do not kill the adult fleas, so if you have fleas, you MUST also
use something to kill the adults. Capstar, another oral product,
is approved for use in dogs and cats. It will kill adult fleas,
but only for a period of 24 hours or less. It is useful in situations
such as boarding, grooming, and prior to surgery.
Flea combs:
Flea combs are often overlooked as a valuable tool in removing
fleas. They are absolutely non-toxic and are the best method to
use on ill, pregnant, or infant pets. Be sure to choose a comb
that has 32 teeth/inch. Comb your pet and then place the fleas
you comb off in detergent water, which will kill them. The disadvantage
to flea combing is that it takes a considerable amount of time,
and will not be effective in pets that have flea bite hypersensitivity.
Keeping fleas away (getting the fleas to flee)
The best flea
control is always flea prevention. Repellents are a cornerstone
of prevention. Pyrethrins and permethrins have flea repellent
activity. (NOTE: Permethrins should NOT be used on cats.) Using
products containing these insecticides will help keep fleas away
and prevent a flea problem from developing.
Regular use
of insect growth regulators/development inhibitors will reduce
the risk of fleas becoming established in the indoor and outdoor
environment.
Before they
are allowed in their house or kennel areas, pets should be given
a flea bath after they have been boarded, played with pets from
other households, or visited places where other animals have been
(e.g., dog parks).
If there is
a severe problem in your geographical area (some areas in the
southern United States), treating the environment with pyrethroid-containing
compounds may be indicated.
©
2000 Drs. Foster and Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from
PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208
